Wednesday, June 29, 2011
Finally! - Really Right Stuff TVC-34L is on it's way to me.
This is a short, quick post. Well, it only took a little over a month, but I recently got word (email) from Really Right Stuff that a brand spankin-new RRS TVC-34L tripod was on its way to me. I have to give some thanks to Casey over at RRS as he was one of the best CS reps I have had the pleasure of dealing with. He even forwarded my requests to the Higher Ups to try to get me my tripod in time for my trip to Alaska. Not sure if it helped, but it definitely made me feel good knowing that they are looking out for people wanting their products. I will be getting the RRS TVC-34L tomorrow and will work on a comparison between it and the Gitzo GT5541LS as well as pictures showing them next to each other. I hope to get this up tomorrow night. Stayed tuned!
Tuesday, June 28, 2011
New Nikon DSLR's - D4 & D400
Well, it is always inevitable, new technology comes out every year eclipsing the latest and greatest that just came out. Camera bodies are no exception. We have been riding the latest revision of the FX D3 body, the D3s, for some time now. While it had great improvements and a completely different sensor than the D3, it is still a little behind the game in terms of Megapixels. ISO sensitivity will be hard to beat in the new bodies, but I am sure they have figured out how to get another usable stop or more out of the new sensors.
With the latest news of a new body (D4 and D400) rumored to be announced in August of this year, I can only imagine how Nikon is going to improve photography once more. I can only imagine that the megapixel (MP) size of the sensor will increase. What I do not know if the ISO sensitivity will also increase. The issue with packing more MP's into the same size sensor is that ISO quality decreases. This is one of the main reasons why the D3x only goes to 6400. I think that is also why the D3s packs more of a punch than the 1D Mark IV from Canon as it is a higher MP sensor, ISO quality at high levels is left behind by Nikon.
Because the latest and greatest always seems to come out year after year, I say put your money into quality glass as it tends to hold its value a lot more than a body as the lenses are not revised year after year. I think quality glass is more important than what body you have. You can get excellent results from a D80 or a D200 with a great lens, than with a D3s and a crappy kit lens. Now, I am not a pro, nor do I make any money doing this, it is just from my experiences and results. Can't wait till August!
With the latest news of a new body (D4 and D400) rumored to be announced in August of this year, I can only imagine how Nikon is going to improve photography once more. I can only imagine that the megapixel (MP) size of the sensor will increase. What I do not know if the ISO sensitivity will also increase. The issue with packing more MP's into the same size sensor is that ISO quality decreases. This is one of the main reasons why the D3x only goes to 6400. I think that is also why the D3s packs more of a punch than the 1D Mark IV from Canon as it is a higher MP sensor, ISO quality at high levels is left behind by Nikon.
Because the latest and greatest always seems to come out year after year, I say put your money into quality glass as it tends to hold its value a lot more than a body as the lenses are not revised year after year. I think quality glass is more important than what body you have. You can get excellent results from a D80 or a D200 with a great lens, than with a D3s and a crappy kit lens. Now, I am not a pro, nor do I make any money doing this, it is just from my experiences and results. Can't wait till August!
Labels:
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Tuesday, June 21, 2011
Nikon Teleconverters Test with the Nikon 600mm VR II & D3s
I have always wanted and needed more reach for some of the subjects that I want to photograph. The longest AF lens that Nikon makes is the 600mm. I am very fortunate to have and to shoot the Nikon 600mm f/4G VR II lens. Since going full frame (FX) with the Nikon D700, then the D3 and now the D3s, you lose a lot of the telephoto reach of the crop or DX sensors from Nikon. You gain a whole lot of wide angle (which I love) and a true (to an extent) focal length of the lenses made for FX bodies.
That being said, I need a little more reach with the FX cameras and the 600mm VR II lens. Since going back to DX was not a desired option, I decided on the teleconverter route as so many others have. Unfortunately with a teleconverter, you lose small amounts of light hitting your sensor. Starting with f/4 on a bare lens, a 2x teleconverter, you are already starting at f/8. In low-light conditions, this is not the best choice unless you bump the iso up which will then introduce a good amount of noise into your picture. Another downside to teleconverters is that if you start past your effective f/stop for your camera, your autofocus abilities also diminish. I believe f/5.6 if the effective f/stop for autofocus to work (Nikon) and the 1.7x and 2.0x theoretically will kill that on an f/4 lens (f/6.3 and f/8 respectively). I have had some success with AF and a 1.7x tc, but it is sluggish. Forget AF on moving subjects with a 2x tc and an f/4 lens (even the new III version).
Since I am planing on heading to Alaska this summer and more importantly heading out to Katmai National Park , I wanted to make sure I had all the reach I could should the need arise. For that, I have the: Sigma 1.4x, Nikon TC-17e II, and Nikon's new Nikon TC-20e III teleconverters to use with my 600mm VR II and 70-200mm VR II lenses. I will not have time to adjust focus of the lens with each teleconverter while there, so I decided to take the time this past weekend to dial in each teleconverter with the 600mm VR II lens on my Nikon D3s camera. The results are shown below, but first pictures of teleconverters:
Sigma APO 1.4x EX DG Teleconverter
Nikon TC-17e II Teleconverter
Now on to the photo tests. I decided to shoot a flat object that is in the same focal plane as the sensor. This way I could get somewhat accurate results with the AF Fine Tune in the Nikon D3s. I won't bore you with how I went about adjusting the fine tune for each image, but basically too the same image everytime adjusting the AF Fine Tune up or down (-20 to +20) in order for each TC and looking on my computer to see which setting yielded the sharpest photo. For my current set-up, it seems that +5 for each TC combo yielded the sharpest for me, although 0 was pretty close! 0 was used for the bare lens as it is pretty damn sharp right out of the box wide open (f/4). Now another note about the picture tests, these are all taken wide open, f/4, f/6.3 and f/8 (note about this is the camera did not recognize the sigma 1.4x tc to change the apeture to f/5.6 on the top lcd). Yes, I could have easily stopped down to make these super sharp, but I am not a pixel peeper and the results below I think are beyond acceptable if not really great based on the criteria used.
Enough of the rambling, here are the photos :
Nikon 600mm f/4G VR II bare lens - full field of view
Nikon 600mm f/4G VR II - Crop
Sigma 1.4x TC - 840mm - full field of view
Sigma 1.4x TC - 840mm - Crop
Nikon TC-17e II Teleconverter - 1020mm - full field of view
Nikon TC-17e II - 1020mm - Crop
Nikon TC-20e III - 1200mm - full field of view
Nikon TC-20e III - 1200mm - Crop
Now, I think they are all pretty sharp. Focus point for each photo was between the 2 raised dots, on the "T". There was absolutely no processing of these images other than importing into light room, cropping the selected crop photos shown, and exporting out .jpg's to post here. I did not adjust any sharpening, contrast, color, etc... That being said, I feel that the Sigma 1.4x TC had the best contrast in the image, with the 1.7x coming in a close second. The 600mm VR II bare at f/4 was the best in my opinion (as it should be!).
I almost did not use and was ready to discount the 1.4x as it seemed cheap to me, but it actually proved me wrong and produced stellar results. The 1.7x I have had for some time and really liked it, but wanted more reach. The TC-20e III is really why I decided to try and post this test. I had the previous TC-20e II and man, did it suck. The images were soft and AF was almost non-existent. The new 2x III version is absolutely amazing in my opinion. It is smaller in size and better in optical IQ. Pared with the 600mm VR II lens, it produced great bokeh, great contrast and most importanly, a sharp picture wide open at f/8. I can not be happier with the results and I look forward to posting the results when I return. In the meantime, more equipment testing and comparisons for my trip to come.
That being said, I need a little more reach with the FX cameras and the 600mm VR II lens. Since going back to DX was not a desired option, I decided on the teleconverter route as so many others have. Unfortunately with a teleconverter, you lose small amounts of light hitting your sensor. Starting with f/4 on a bare lens, a 2x teleconverter, you are already starting at f/8. In low-light conditions, this is not the best choice unless you bump the iso up which will then introduce a good amount of noise into your picture. Another downside to teleconverters is that if you start past your effective f/stop for your camera, your autofocus abilities also diminish. I believe f/5.6 if the effective f/stop for autofocus to work (Nikon) and the 1.7x and 2.0x theoretically will kill that on an f/4 lens (f/6.3 and f/8 respectively). I have had some success with AF and a 1.7x tc, but it is sluggish. Forget AF on moving subjects with a 2x tc and an f/4 lens (even the new III version).
Since I am planing on heading to Alaska this summer and more importantly heading out to Katmai National Park , I wanted to make sure I had all the reach I could should the need arise. For that, I have the: Sigma 1.4x, Nikon TC-17e II, and Nikon's new Nikon TC-20e III teleconverters to use with my 600mm VR II and 70-200mm VR II lenses. I will not have time to adjust focus of the lens with each teleconverter while there, so I decided to take the time this past weekend to dial in each teleconverter with the 600mm VR II lens on my Nikon D3s camera. The results are shown below, but first pictures of teleconverters:
Sigma APO 1.4x EX DG Teleconverter
Nikon TC-17e II Teleconverter
Nikon TC-20e III Teleconverter
Enough of the rambling, here are the photos :
Nikon 600mm f/4G VR II bare lens - full field of view
Nikon 600mm f/4G VR II - Crop
Sigma 1.4x TC - 840mm - full field of view
Nikon TC-20e III - 1200mm - full field of view
Nikon TC-20e III - 1200mm - Crop
Now, I think they are all pretty sharp. Focus point for each photo was between the 2 raised dots, on the "T". There was absolutely no processing of these images other than importing into light room, cropping the selected crop photos shown, and exporting out .jpg's to post here. I did not adjust any sharpening, contrast, color, etc... That being said, I feel that the Sigma 1.4x TC had the best contrast in the image, with the 1.7x coming in a close second. The 600mm VR II bare at f/4 was the best in my opinion (as it should be!).
I almost did not use and was ready to discount the 1.4x as it seemed cheap to me, but it actually proved me wrong and produced stellar results. The 1.7x I have had for some time and really liked it, but wanted more reach. The TC-20e III is really why I decided to try and post this test. I had the previous TC-20e II and man, did it suck. The images were soft and AF was almost non-existent. The new 2x III version is absolutely amazing in my opinion. It is smaller in size and better in optical IQ. Pared with the 600mm VR II lens, it produced great bokeh, great contrast and most importanly, a sharp picture wide open at f/8. I can not be happier with the results and I look forward to posting the results when I return. In the meantime, more equipment testing and comparisons for my trip to come.
Thursday, June 9, 2011
Rethinking RRS TVC-34L Tripod Choice for upcoming trip to Alaska
Well, after giving it a lot of thought, I am rethinking my tripod choice for an upcoming trip to Alaska. I currently have the Gitzo GT5541LS which is a beast of a tripod - strong and stable. The big issue is the weight. I am 6'-1" and it is plenty tall for me along with my wimberley head. I originally wanted, and am currently on the waitlist for, a RRS TVC-34L as it goes plenty high, packs small and weighs almost 2lbs less than my Gitzo. Now the reason I am rethinking is solely based on packing. I do not have a lot of room for things and a huge tripod is a big concern. Katmai is the main place for the trip and I feel I might be on my knees most of the time while photographing, which would negate the need for a tall tripod.
After reading many blogs and forums and asking a few questions from a fellow photographer Michael Fullana, Creative Edge Photography, about what he brought to Alaska when he went this past September, it made me re-prioritize my needs. He told me he just brought a Gitzo 3 section 3 series tripod. After seeing the Amazing Alaska Images he captured while in AK from the lesser tripod of the 5 series, I seriously am considering getting a 3 series again or trying the RRS TVC-24 or the TVC-24L. The TVC-24 collapses down to 18.7" and can hold 40lbs. More than enough for a D3s, wimberley and a 600mm VR, especially if all legs are not extended. The only downfall to the 24 is that it only extends to 49". The 24L goes to almost 67", holds 40lbs and packs down 1" smaller and is 1lb lighter than the TVC-34L. I might have to buy the TVC-24 and the TVC-34L to compare and see what will work best. I will add a follow up post as soon as I can on this.
After reading many blogs and forums and asking a few questions from a fellow photographer Michael Fullana, Creative Edge Photography, about what he brought to Alaska when he went this past September, it made me re-prioritize my needs. He told me he just brought a Gitzo 3 section 3 series tripod. After seeing the Amazing Alaska Images he captured while in AK from the lesser tripod of the 5 series, I seriously am considering getting a 3 series again or trying the RRS TVC-24 or the TVC-24L. The TVC-24 collapses down to 18.7" and can hold 40lbs. More than enough for a D3s, wimberley and a 600mm VR, especially if all legs are not extended. The only downfall to the 24 is that it only extends to 49". The 24L goes to almost 67", holds 40lbs and packs down 1" smaller and is 1lb lighter than the TVC-34L. I might have to buy the TVC-24 and the TVC-34L to compare and see what will work best. I will add a follow up post as soon as I can on this.
Wednesday, April 27, 2011
NIkon Lenses - Nikon 50mm f/1.8G AF-S
I will admit, I am definitely a Nikon fanboy. I love all things Nikon from the super telephotos down to the small primes. Speaking of small, Nikon just announced the new Nikon 50mm f/1.8G AF-S Lens last night. The D version of this lens is actually the first lens I ever owned. I bought a used nikon d50 off of craigslist and part of the deal was the 50mm f/1.8. I did not know much about it at the time but I learned to love it and make great pictures (well, ones that I enjoyed anyway). I learned about depth of field, minimum focal distance, aperture, etc.. I had never owned an slr camera before, let alone a digital slr. I have come a long way since, but I still have a TON to learn as I seem to be challenged everyday I am able to go shooting, whether it be still objects or moving. I have since sold the lens along with that camera to another person that was just starting out and seeing the new incarnation of this lens, I might just get it for kicks as it is super small and lightweight. I can just throw it in a bag and not worry about it.
I have had all sorts of f/1.4 lenses - 50mm f/1.4G, 85mm f/1.4G and I have learned that for at least what I like to do, the 50mm and less seems to be the best as the minimum focus distance (MFD) on the 85mm f/1.4G that I had just seemed to be too long for the way I wanted to use it. Can Nikon make an 85mm f/1.4 with a super short MFD similar to the 24-70mm or the 24mm f/1.4G? I am sure it can be done, but at what cost, I have no idea. I know that because of that, the 50mm f/1.4G seems to be the lens I go to for shallow depth of field when I need to be a little bit closer and f/2.8 of the 24-70mm just won't cut it. Can't wait to see how the new 50mm f/1.8G is when it comes out as I am anxious to give it a try again...
I have had all sorts of f/1.4 lenses - 50mm f/1.4G, 85mm f/1.4G and I have learned that for at least what I like to do, the 50mm and less seems to be the best as the minimum focus distance (MFD) on the 85mm f/1.4G that I had just seemed to be too long for the way I wanted to use it. Can Nikon make an 85mm f/1.4 with a super short MFD similar to the 24-70mm or the 24mm f/1.4G? I am sure it can be done, but at what cost, I have no idea. I know that because of that, the 50mm f/1.4G seems to be the lens I go to for shallow depth of field when I need to be a little bit closer and f/2.8 of the 24-70mm just won't cut it. Can't wait to see how the new 50mm f/1.8G is when it comes out as I am anxious to give it a try again...
Thursday, April 21, 2011
Sharpness and long lens technique.
I was reading a recent blog from Moose Peterson (one photographer that I look up to) regarding sharpness and have always struggled a little, as I am sure most have, with getting really sharp shots when using a super telephoto lens. In my case, the Nikon 600mm f/4G VR lens when it is used in conjunction with a teleconverter. I have practiced the proper long lens technique that Moose describes here as much as I can.
When I have the 600mm VR on naked (no teleconverter) I can get very clean, sharp shots. Once I throw on a TC, the whole game changes for me. I try to keep the shutter speed at least the same as the focal length that I am using, which would be at least 1/640 for 600mm and so on. This does not always work for me as I tend to get shots that are less than sharp and sometimes I have to crank the ISO up to get the shutter speed where I want it at the aperture I set (I tend to use aperture priority on my Nikon D3s) which gives me more noise than I care for when it is first light or last light. I know it is not the tc as I have gotten razor sharp shots with the Nikon 400mm VR of birds in flight. I suppose I just have to keep practicing. What do you all do? I am quite curious to see if others are in my situation or if I just doing it all wrong.....
Here are a few shots with the Nikon 400mm f/2.8 VR with a Nikon TC-17e II teleconverter:
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| Nikon 400mm f/2.8 VR with the Nikon TC-17e II |
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| Nikon 400mm f/2.8 VR with the Nikon TC-17e II |
Wednesday, April 20, 2011
Gitzo & Really Right Stuff Tripods - TVC-34L
I currently use a Gitzo GT5541LS tripod for most of the shooting that I do with large glass. Previously I have used the Gitzo GT3541LS, GT3531s (I am sure you have seen a picture of it if you have googled "nikon 600mm f/4" when I had my afs II on a crappy ballhead at the beach), Gitzo GT5530s, and the GT3541XLS. The GT3541xls was great, sturdy and tall but was too long for traveling when completely closed up. The GT3541ls was almost tall enough for me (I am 6'-1") and alright with a 500mm f/4 or less. The GT5530s was massive, heavy and sturdy as hell. It unfortunately was just too short for me and I hated the center column on it. I have taken the GT3531s with me to Alaska as it proved to be great for packing in checked luggage and strong enough for the 300mm VR that I took along (I wish I took longer glass!).
Now, the GT5541LS is a great tripod and it has been my go to for some time now. It is a bit on the heavy side at a tad over 6lbs for just the legs. Add a wimberley head at 3 pounds and you are carrying some weight. I had always thought that Gitzo was the only way to go as I could not find a comparable product in the market place.
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| Nikon 600mm f/4 AF-S II w/ Gitzo GT3531s |
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| Nikon 400mm f/2.8 VR w/ Gitzo GT5530s |
Now, the GT5541LS is a great tripod and it has been my go to for some time now. It is a bit on the heavy side at a tad over 6lbs for just the legs. Add a wimberley head at 3 pounds and you are carrying some weight. I had always thought that Gitzo was the only way to go as I could not find a comparable product in the market place.
Now, I know Really Right Stuff was going to be making tripods for some time now, but I never saw any in action or much advertising of them. I have been reading a lot about their Really Right Stuff TVC-33 in many online photo forums and really enjoying what I am seeing and reading. Looking at the specs, the weight of the tripod looks fantastic, but it seems it might come up a little short for me when fully extended and a little long when folded up.
Enter the Really Right Stuff TVC-34L. I am excited about the prospects of this one as it has a full height of 70" when extended and a tad over 24" when fully closed up. The best part, 4.7lbs and a smaller overall diameter of the top plate. This is almost 2lbs lighter, opens up taller and more compact than the GT5541LS that I am currently using. I am heading back to Alaska this summer and will be packing the 600mm VR and I need a good tripod to pack. Weight and size savings will be welcomed like a new family member. I am anxiously awaiting the release of the TVC-34L and can't wait to give my review.
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| Nikon 500mm f/4 VR w/ Gitzo GT5541LS |
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| Size Comparison of the Gitzo GT5544LS vs. Gitzo GT3541LS |
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